Business

This young SA designer is redefining cultural narratives through jewellery

ENTREPRENEURSHIP

Fast Company Contributor|Published

A neck piece by Andile Hlongwane's Topsy Jewellery showing the geometric designs that echo her influences.

Image: Supplied

In an industry often synonymous with luxury and exclusivity, 25-year-old Andile Hlongwane is redefining perceptions while crafting her path as a prominent young jewellery designer.

Hailing from KwaDabeka Township in Durban, Hlongwane’s passion for jewellery transcends aesthetics; it is deeply rooted in cultural narratives and personal expression.

With geometric designs that echo her influences, she is turning her dreams into reality, one piece at a time.

Notably, Hlongwane's emerging brand, Topsy Jewellery, has gained recognition and was selected to exhibit at the ongoing Intra-African Trade Fair 2025 (IATF2025) in Algeria.

She reflected on the rigours of entrepreneurship while remaining optimistic about the learning opportunities that come her way.

“It came about two weeks ago, and they said, ‘you must come here,’” she recalled. “I didn't even have enough stock, but my family urged me to go, and I was able to do some of this work and come and present it here.”

Hlongwane acknowledged her initial hesitance, thinking her business too small for such a prestigious platform. However, the experience ignited a newfound desire to explore international trade fairs further.

”To share our vision, we’ve made a landing page for the company and we use social media platforms for visibility, while exhibitions like this allow us to connect directly with people,” she said.

“So I feel like I'm going to start paying more attention or applying to more of these.I thought my business was small, so I decided to stay in my country and focus on just building it, only to find out this opportunity [where you] can literally do it even on a continental scale when you're still growing yourself.” 

longwane's emerging brand, Topsy Jewellery has gained recognition and was selected to exhibit at the ongoing Intra-African Trade Fair 2025 (IATF2025) in Algeria.

Image: Supplied

The journey for Hlongwane began while she was still in high school, where aspirations for fashion design led her to the world of jewellery. She enrolled in a Diploma in Jewellery Manufacturing at the Durban University of Technology (DUT), where her path took an unexpected turn towards entrepreneurship.

“When I enrolled at DUT, I discovered the Entrepreneurship Desk in my third year, and I started my company there,” she said. The combination of creative ambition and practical business education laid the groundwork for her future.

After graduating in 2022, Hlongwane secured a permanent position at one of the prominent bespoke jewellery makers but quickly recognised her aspirations extended beyond a conventional work environment.

However, she eventually felt stuck and wanted to go back to running her own company. She longed for innovation, hence her interest in Computer-Aided Design (CAD), a tool that allows designers to create intricate 3D jewellery models with precision.

“I felt like I had more potential and I needed to explore more because I wanted to learn setting and I also wanted to learn CAD,” Hlongwane said.

Hlongwane's artistic vision is heavily influenced by South African culture, particularly the vibrant Zulu beadwork and the geometric patterns found in Durban's famous Art Deco architecture.

“It's most definitely geometric patterns because I'm inspired by Durban. That's where it started, Durban Art Deco. I love contemporary jewellery, so you're going to see more geometric patterns and repetition,” Hlongwane said.

“We're also inspired by Zulu beadwork. I try by all means to bring it back to South African roots because geometric and art deco is more of something outside the country. But I try to bring it back to South African roots where we're still inspired by things from South Africa like beads.” 

In fact, she has plans to experiment with South African beads in future collections, further solidifying her commitment to cultural authenticity.

“But you won't see beads on my pieces, you'll see granulation instead of beads. That's what I use. But now I want to try and make a collection with beads, South African beads. We're currently working on that.” 

Topsy Jewellery embodies more than mere adornment; it is a medium for storytelling. Hlongwane aims for her clients to feel represented and connected when wearing her pieces.

“I want to represent you as a person, not just me alone,” she explained. “You must see yourself in my pieces. When you're wearing it, it must tell your story while it's still telling my story.”

Her focus is predominantly on sentimental buyers who seek meaningful investment in their jewellery rather than fleeting fashion trends.

“Most definitely my target audience is sentimental buyers because they buy value, not people who just buy something that you're going to wear and throw it away.”

Hlongwane's thirst for knowledge has led her to take part in internships, like at Mizane Jewellery, and pursue further studies with an Advanced Diploma from the University of Johannesburg.

With support from an empowerment program from Ekurhuleni jewellery project, Andile Hlongwane is taking steady steps toward enhancing her skills and business acumen.

Image: Supplied

With support from an empowerment program from Ekurhuleni jewellery project, she is taking steady steps toward enhancing her skills and business acumen.

The future shines brightly for Hlongwane, whose passion and dedication to her craft indicate a promising trajectory in jewellery design.

“I’m focusing more on the entrepreneurship side and making sure that I build a foundation for my brand, especially this year,” she shared.

“I have been investing more into the company, pouring in new ideas, skills, and directions, and I really like the path it’s taking. I want to see it in international heights where people can order from me wherever they are, we can deliver to them.”

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